- 70mm BBK/Edelbrock throttle body.
- FRP GT-40X Aluminum heads.
- '94/5 Cobra Intake manifold, ported. I had the ugly grey factory paint bead blasted off and I painted it with VHT 500deg. aluminum colored paint. The polish on the lettering was done with a vibrating sander. Overall it made for a major improvement in the looks department for not much effort.
- Steeda/Yella Terra 1.72 adjustable shaft mount roller rocker arms. Shown below on the old stock heads.
- B&M oil cooler and TD oil filter sandwich adapter. I'd like to relocate the cooler to someplace other then the front of the radiator to improve airflow through the radiator, and when I relocate the battery I'll move the cooler to that area. Probably run a duct to it for air flow. I could always add a fan if that was not sufficient.
- Vacuum can from some big Ford car found in a local wrecking yard. Not sure if it's helped with brake performance, might have, but it doesn't hurt. Mounted in front left fender/bumper well under the battery:
- Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft. Forward weight departed at a track event so i had it rebalanced by San Jose Driveline.
- Fluidyne Radiator.
- Romac balancer. Original stock one died. Kinda overkill for a stock bottom end, but I figure I'll use it on the next motor. Got it through Houston Performance.
- Flow-Cooler water pump. (can be bought at Summit). 180* thermostat.
- MSD ProBillet Distributor, part# 8455. Yep, overkill but it sure works nice. Also, MSD Coil, wires, 6AL spark box, RPM activated switch and shift light.
- Pro 5.0 shifter with stock shift handle and 5.0 Resto bushings.
- C&L 73mm MAF.
- Ford 24lb. injectors.
- Manual Fan Switch since I removed the fog lights to facilitate the installation of brake ducts I wired the fog light switch to manually turn on the high speed fan. I also bypassed the low speed fan so that anytime the computer has the fan come on it will be in high speed mode.
- Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
- Summit 12" pusher fan on a manual switch. For those really hot days up at Thunderhill. A band-aid until I can figure out how to make the car run cooler.
- Powersteering cooler from a BigAss Ford (BAF) found in the local wrecking yard. Replaces the stock cooler. The BAF cooler is about double the size of the stock GT cooler. I mounted it to the bottom of the radiator support. Believe it or not, I didn't have to drill any new holes as existing holes in the radiator suppport lined up with two holes already on the cooler. I just had to transfer two speed clips from the cooler to the car. The other two you can toss out. There are actually two bolt holes on each end of the cooler, but I only used one on each end. I run Redline D4ATF and haven't had any issues with the fluid overheating.
This location may not be the best as proved at a recent auto-x where I nailed a big cone and proceeded to drag it around the remainder of the course. The cne pushed the cooler up slightly, loosening up one of the lines. I didn't notice this until I was checking over the car the next day and noticed the powersteering fluid was low, and then glanced under the car and found a small puddle of fluid. If I didn't have the hoses double clamped it proably would have been worse. Lesson learned is to check the car over better after tagging a cone head on.
Top: BAF cooler, Bottom: Stock GT cooler:
- MAC equal length shorty headers. PITA to install, go with unequal and save yourself the headache.
- Differential vent modification. In high G conering, like a left-hand turn such as T2 at Thunderhill, fluid will be pushed out the vent. Here is a cheap and easy fix (pre-torque arm/panhard bar photo):