2011 Porsche 911 Turbo S

Somewhere in Monument Valley

I replaced my 2003 Porsche Carrera 4S that I bought in mid 2008 with this car, a 2011 911 Turbo S in January 2017.  It is 1 of 1,267 997.2 Turbo S coupes produced from 2011-13 for the N. America market.  As my ownership blog for the 4S proved to be popular, judging by the random emails I regularly received from people all over the world thanking me for posting it, I'll keep a blog for this car also.  I hope you find the information useful. Questions? E-mail me, Site Homepage.

Porsche Option DecoderPorsche 2011 Turbo brochureRennlist DIY guides.

Porsche Maintenance Schedules. Below is my simplified version [my next change interval]:

10K: Oil & Filter [80K]2 years: Brake Fluid [Jan 2023]. 30K: Spark Plugs, Cabin Filter [80K], flip brake pads inside-outside? [90K].  40K: Engine Air filter [100K]. 50K: Wheel cap O-rings? [100K]. 60K: Accessory Belt [80K], Clutch Oil [100K]. Transmission, Front Differential & AWD Controller, Power steering fluids [110K], Expansion tank cap [120K]. 80K: Coolant [120K].
Spark Plugs- Denso Iridium IKH22 5345. Ignition Coil- 9A1.602.104.07. Accessory Belt- Continental 99919237950 CTT. Wipers- Michelin 14522, Valeo #V3900221BIgnition Coil- Beru ZSE052 9A1-602-104-07-M47. Wheel Cap O-rings- 99970104540.  Tires- Michellin Pilot Sport 4S, 235/35-19, 305/30-19.   Expansion Tank Cap- 99610644704.   Driveshaft Flex Disc- Bilstein 34744 / 99642113701SK

Filters=>  Oil- Mahle OX 254 D4.   Cabin- MANN CUK3360, or Airmatic 997-571-219-01-M760.   Engine- Porsche 997-110-131-30.

Fluids=>  Engine- Redline 5W-40. Transaxle- Redline 75W-90NS, & Redline DCTF.  Power Steering- Pentosin 202.  Brake- Pentosin DOT4LV.  Centerlock- Castrol Molube Alloy Paste TA.     Differential- Redline 75W-90, & Porsche AWD Controller Mobilfluid LT 75W-80 000-043-305-40-M100.

5yr/60K mi Fidelity powertrain warranty expires August 2023 (or at 104K mi).

Centerlock Wheel changing guide (simplified from Porsche guide 99782111):
(1). Stretch to loosen up your muscles so you don't pull something ;-)
(2). Put car in park or 1st, parking brake on. Jack the car up.
(3). Depress the brake pedal. I place a 22” long 2x4 between the seat and brake pedal.
(4). Remove the wheel dust cap, remove wheel nut.
(5). Screw wheel alignment tool onto hub, remove the wheel.
(6). Put the wheel back onRemove the wheel alignment tool. 
(7). Lightly lube the conical surface of the wheel nut, and the first couple threads on the hub.  Screw on the wheel nut by hand.
(8). Torque the wheel nut to 444ft-lbs.  Loosen ¼ turn.  Torque it again to 444ft-lbs.
(9). Ensure that the central locking pin has popped out into the locked position.  If not, use a square tool to wiggle it until it pops out.
(10). Release the brake pedal (remove 2x4 holding down the brake pedal). Lower the car.

Service: TrackSpec Autosports.    Autocross Stuff.    Walkie-Talkie Info.

Parts Wanted: Meteor gray metallic painted hood, black leather covered glovebox door (mine got scratched).

DSCsport Controller shock settings files. The xls spreadsheet outlines the changes I've made from file to file. 

Upcoming Maintenance
80K: Accessory belt, Spark Plugs, Cabin Filter, Oil & Filter Change, check rubber driveshaft flex joint.


Got a new set of 4S's and have found after having had a few sets that you really need to run higher tire pressures to get even wear out of them, ~3psi or more depending upon how you are driving, over the door sticker rec. Sometimes even more pressure than that.  The old set still have some life in them but they are getting down and I didn't want to run them on long road trips.  After consulting with TrackSpec we decided to try a bit more camber too: F=> Camber -1.7, total toe 1/32". R=> Camber -2.0, total toe 1/16".

Stuck some Dynamat over the top of the front shock towers to try to cut down some of the road noise that I get on certain road surfaces after the installation of the coilovers.  It seemed to help quite a bit.

I redid the iphone connection as yet another iphone extension cable is giving me fits connecting reliably to my iphone X. The aftermarket just does not make a decent extension cord. So I'm now trying out a Taotronics Bluetooth receiver patched into AUX audio input. I used a USB splitter cord to power it, and to attach a standard Apple iphone cable to charge my iphone. I'll have to see if the phone will maintain a charge while running nav and Whatapp with the screen constantly on, or if I'll have to get a better source of power.  I could stick a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter and run the charging cord from there, but woudl rather not do that.  After testing streaming audio over it, answering and receiving calls, it works seemlessly so far. I would have thought that it would get confused connecting between the car's bluetooth and the Taotronic's, but that doesn't seem to be the case.  Music streaming over bluetooth also sounds better than over the extension cord, and through the mess of multiple adapters. 

February 2021
Brake system flushed.

New wipers, Michelin 14522 Cyclone Premium Hybrid.  While the Valeo's worked well, and I like the low profile of them, the passenger side blade never made the best contact with the curve in the windshield so figured I'd try a similar type by a different manufacturer. These don't really work any better.

The lightning plug on the extension cord that I previously installed got loose yet again, and it would disconnect from my iphone randomly, or the phone would not connect, so I got a new one from BeBetter on Amazon as Apple still does not make extension cords.  The last one lasted 3 years, hopefully this one is more durable.

Fixed the right front fender liner that cracked after bottoming out on a very big dip on a backroad (pre DSCsport coilover install).  I patched it up with some sheet Al and rivets.  I have a set of new fender liners on the shelf but as long as I can keep patching these up they will stay on the car.

My old radiator hose protection mod is holding up.  I'd rather crack the fender liner than bust a radiator.

DSCsport coilovers ordered and installed by TrackSpec. After discussing with Tom at DSC about how I drive the car and have it setup (corner weights, swaybars, tires, etc.) the spring rates recommended were 400lb F & 700lb R.  They also provided me with a custom file to load to the controller.   Since my car is AWD, the front axles need to be removed from the spindles in order to have clearance to get the strut out, and therefore the axle nuts should be replaced.  The alignment was checked and set to the following: F=> Camber -1.5, total toe 1/32". R=> Camber -1.7, total toe 1/16".

Sept-November 2020, 70K mi.

Oil & Filter (Report). After years of Blackstone report telling me that I could run the oil longer, I finally did.  I discovered that if you overfill the oil a bit by maybe 3/4qt+, you'll get an randome oil level warning light.  

New Michellin 4S tires mounted and balanced at TrackSpec. I installed these on my 2nd set of wheels to have a set of tires with deep tread for the winter. They wear better at 2psi more than the door sticker which specifies 37/44.The old set still has some life left in them.  While the car was at TrackSpec I had it weighed (with me in it, and a half tank of gas) as I will be ordering a set of coil-overs and this would help determine spring rates.

I painted the indentation on the steering wheel with leather touch up/repair paint.  I mixed up the colors in a repair kit to sorta match the exterior color. I figured if I eventually didn't like it I could easily remove it.

New Expansion Tank Cap.  Replaced just because, to keep the cooling system operating at peak efficiency.  It's important, and cheap enough to replace every 60-70K mi. 

Another new windshield from Safelite.  The old one had more chips repaired on it that I could remember, and was very pitted, to the point that it was really annoying when the sun was low in the sky.  For $533 it was really worth it.

Removed the front bumper to clean out the radiators and attempt to seal up the edges of the screens I had previously instaled in the bumper.  The screens do a great job of keeping a lot of stuff out of the radiators, but it can be difficult picking out leaves when they try to go around the screens.

My annual inspection turned up that I needed to replace both the front and rear brake pads.  If I had flipped the rear pads from inside to outside, I would have gotten more life out of those.  The outside rear pads wore faster that the inside, and I'm not sure why.  The dust boots were also baked and cracked.  None of the pads had hit the electronic wear sensors yet, but they were getting close. You could see the brass wear indicators on the outside rear pads however.  The front pads were also cracked. These PCCB pads do wear out when they are thicker that what I am accustom to seeing on regular pads. While removing the pads I found that a piston was broken on the front left caliper. How that happened I have no idea as I could tell that it never looked like any brake work had ever been done on the car since it left the factory.  While I had everything apart I measured and weighed the disks: Fronts were 690g and over 34mm, and the rears 580g and over 28mm. I got all the parts through a local Porsche dealer, except for the piston which I got from TRG as the dealer can't supply. The piston I got from TRG had a yellow top, otherwise it was the same dimensionally.  I couldn't tell if the top was a different material or not.  On the rear calipers the metal tabs that hold down the wire for the sensors broke when I removed the wire, so I used a stainless steel zip tie to hold the wire when I put it back together.
Piston sizes: F- 28mm, 32mm, & 36mm diameter. R- 34mm diameter. All measured out to be 32.6mm tall, though I found online they state 32mm.
Pads: F- 997.351.948.01, R- 997.352.947.02.
Bolts: F- 999.067.054.09, R- 999.067.040.01.
Rear piston seals: 965.352.917.00.


January, 2020
After a year of going back and forth with SCCA, I finally got them to reclass the 2011-2013 997.2 Turbo S to SS!  It was previously classed in SSP, which was ridiculous in that you could option out a regular Turbo to have all the stuff that a S has, with the exception of the unlimited overboost, which isn't worth anything in a autocross.  Also, there were more S models build than non S.  SCCA Feb 2020 Fastrack.

I realized that I could use bungie cords to keep things from getting tossed around the trunk, particularily my travel tool bag, and a bag that I keep flares, water, etc.  for emergencies.  I just hook the cord end hooks onto the removeable trunk floor. I don't know why I didn't think of this over the many years I've owned Porsches.

The Drivers side seat memory switch was starting to break so I got a spare from Specialized German on Ebay for when it really comes apart.  It broke from bracing my knee against the door. Part #99761310300. $25.

Installed a GaugeArt ODB2 gauge in the idiotic timer wart on the dash. This replaces the gear change indicator I previously stuck in there.  I also bought a 3 to 1 OBD port splitter so I could install another ODB2 driven item or two at some point in the future if I wanted to. 

I reset the PDK transmission, so that it would go through a relearning process. A friend had an issue with her transmission, so when doing some research I found this procedure.  It seems to have fixed her issue, a couple random fault codes and some other random strange shifting, and mine isn't as clunky on the first couple shifts on the first drive of the day.
(1). Turn on the engine.  Turn off the A/C and any other systems like the PCM radio, etc.  Let the engine run for 3 minutes.
(2). Turn on the A/C and wait another 3 minutes.
(3). Turn off the engine, remove key, close and lock the car, and wait 1 minute.
(4). Restart the car, and the PDK is now reset to the factory default.

November, 2019

I didn't feel that the lumbar support was providing enough support for my lower back in the seatback, so I moved the air bags further down inside the seat.  To remove the seat back, slip your fingers into each side of the seat back about 3/4 of the way to the top, and lift up to unhook it at the top, and pull it towards you.  There are two small plastic tabs about mid way down that stick out that will need to be slid out after you unhook the top.  To move the bags you'll need to cut some zip ties, and then use some new zip ties to re secure the bags.

Installed a magnetic mount for a walkie-talkie up where the sunroof controls are located.  This way it is easily reachable for both the driver and navigator, can be heard much better (operating 2 radios causes feebdback), and a earpiece/mic can used when solo driving and the wire won't be in the way of steering.  I used a WizGear magnetic vent mount, and unscrewed the part that you press into the vent.  I drilled a very small hole in the plastic for the sunroof controls, put some felt tape on the back of the magnet, and secured the magnet with a small screw.  While I do not like to do any mods that cannot be reversed, the hole will be so small that I doubt anyone will ever notice or care if I removed the magnet.

New magnetic numbers from
TrackSpec, and license plate cover.  I use some small binder clips to hold the plate cover on during events.

I mounted a halon fire extinguiser that was in my old racecar behind the passenger seat.  I got to thinking it would be good to always have it in the car vs. sitting in the garage, considering that when the fuel pump failed, it leaked fuel.  I used some aluminum bar stock that I had sitting around, to bolt the fire extinguisher mount to. Then bolted the aluminum pieces to the rear seat mount bolts.  This way I did not have to drill any holes into the car.  After this photo was taken I painted the bare aluminum pieces black. 

October 60Kmi.
Engine Air filter, Oil & Filter (Report).

The throttle body intake hose slipped just enough, at the Y junction, to leak under boost over 6psi.  It didn't throw any codes, it just felt like I was missing power when on it.  So I replaced all 6 of the stock hose clamps on the intake hoses with ones from the hardware store that are 2x the width of the stock ones.
To add a bit more support to the hose clamp that slipped I used 2 zip ties, made into a figure 8, with one part looped around the screw part of the clamp and the other the base on the Y connector for a smaller hose that branched off.

The new clamp is in the foreground.

September, 59K mi.

The high pressure fuel pump failed.  Leading up to it's failure the engine crank time to fire up got longer. I just figured that was due to the car sitting longer than usual between when it was driven.  When it finally set off a warning "Reduced Engine Power" in the instrument cluster it felt as if the tracion control was on when I got on the power, and if this was an old carburated analog car it was as if it was starving for fuel, which turned out it was. I was able to limp it home, and eventually to TrackSpec.  The fuel pump is located at the bottom, back left side of the motor.  It also had a slight residue on it that appeared to be oil, but had a minor fuel smell to it.  I pulled two codes from the car.  First 1026, which I cleared and upon restart it threw a 1031.  Searching rennlist I stumbled upon a bunch of threads about these pumps failing. With a Durametric TrackSpec was able to pull the fuel pressure, which showed only 6bar vs. 50.  While the car was on their rack for the warranty guy to inspect it the pump started to visably leaking fuel.  The Fidelity 5yr/60Kmi powertrain warranty I bought from Michael Jordain at Mossy Motors in New Orleans came in handy as these pumps turned out to be really expensive.  I found him via Rennlist.  In fact the warranty paid for itself with this repair, and more. The fuel pump however was not in stock anywhere in the entire US through Porsche, and no aftermarket ones are available from anyone.  Apparently the part number recently changed, likely due to a supplier change, or the part itself being changed.  My guess is that Porsche pulled all the old stock, and the supply chain has not had a chance to catch up. Or these cars are finally getting the mileage on them for this part to fail, and all the stock got sucked up.  On the forums it looks like Porsche had issues in 2009 to perhaps 2010 as they replaced pumps after the cars warranty expired.   I sucked up the expedited shipping from German, otherwise it could have taken 3 weeks to get here.  Fidelity covered it all but the extra shipping charge and the deductible on the warranty.  A gallon of coolant was replaced during the R&R of the pump. If you want to do this job yourself, here's a thread on Rennlist

June-July, 58K mi.
New Michellin 4S tires mounted and balanced at TrackSpec.  It looks like I got ~15K mi. out of the last set, including 18 AX events with an average ~10 runs per event.  They really do work well with everything I throw at them, and wear exceptionally well for the high amount of grip they provide.

Sent off the DSCsport module for an update to correct the inability to toggle the shock setting from normal to sport while in Sport+ mode. While it was there they also upgraded it so the the Accel tab is enabled.  This was previously only available on 991's.  I have not played with that yet, and frankly do not see the need to.  The car launches like a rocket as it is.

May, 56K mi.
New Battery from Napa.  The old one was 2.5 years old, and it wouldn't hold a charge for more than a couple days.  I think I killed it by forgetting that I left the key in the ignition while fussing around with something multiple times.  Which is the downside to turning off the chime for leaving the key in the ignition.  The warranty on the old battery was good so I only had to pay 1/3 the price of a new one.


I tend to keep the windshield sunshade on the shelf under the rear window, and I sometimes toss jackets and hats back there.  To keep stuff from sliding forward I stuck piece of black plastic, Sintra, into the slot where the Bose subwoofer attaches.  To keep it from popping out I stuck one side of pieces of stick on velcro to the plastic so it grabs onto the carpet.

November-December, 2018 52K mi.
Annual inspection: Pulled off most of the undertray pieces and gave everything a good once over.  I noticed that one front caliper, and one rear caliper, were missing the rubber caps on 2 inner bleed screws.  I never noticed them missing before, but then again I really just look at the pads and disks whenever I have the wheels off, so i have no idea when they went missing.  I got a new pair and some extras from Atlanta's Jim Ellis Porsche (their website is very easy to navigate to find parts, and customer service and prices are great).  I also noticed a crack in the front undertray, and also added two more pieces of aluminum to have a bit more overlap between the front undertray and the ones behind it.  The PCCB brake pads and discks just don't ever seem to wear.

Maintenance performed: Oil change (Report), new wipers, cabin filter, spark plugs, fluids: brakes, power steering, transaxle, front differential (both gear & AWD controller).  Note than when changing the dif fluid that the rear drain plug is the AWD Controller fluid, and on the transmission the gear oil drain and fill plugs are on the opposite side of the transmission that the PDK clutch fluid plugs are on.  The PDK clutch fluid drain plug in the composite pan, and it's fill plug is on that same side of the transmission.  While I had a good look at everything myself, I also had the suspension and alignment checked at TrackSpec.  I think that is is really important to rack your car up at least once a year to catch anything before it becomes an issue.
        F=> Camber -1.2, total toe -1/32".
        R=> Camber -1.7, total toe 1/16".

The iPhone extension cord was changed out as the connector to the phone on the old one got flaky.  I got another Cellurize cable on Amazon, but a newer model that is braided, and seems from reviews to be more robust.

On a spirited drive I had what felt to be the traction control engaging under acceleration, which never happens to the degree that I experienced, quickly followed by a PSM failure message in the instrument cluster.  When I reproduced the event, I got two additonal engine service messages.  The car drove fine otherwise, and I did not get any more urgent messages stating something to the effect of needing to drive the car to a service center immediately. Since the car was still under Porsche CPO warranty (expires Jan 1st) I drove it to Carlsen Porsche who diagnosed it as a bad coil, which was covered under the warranty.  On the way home, once I got the car warmed up and was able to exercise it, I had the same experience that started all of this, and the same messages appear.  Back at the dealer they diagnosed it with a bad coil on a different cylinder, and also covered that additional coil under warranty.  I then paid them to replace the other four coils figuring the probablility of the others failing was likely high. 9A1.602.104.07 Ignition Coil.  I wonder if the coils should just be replaced every other spark plug change.  While the car was there they noticed that the dirvers side window switch needed replacing, so they did that under warrantly. I never noticed any issue with the switch or window operation.  997.613.151.12.A05 Switch Module.

I removed the shift light, since it was redundent as the gear indicator I installed in the timer wart has that function.  With the PDK it is rather irrelevant as I leave the car in auto mode, and if I do any shifting I really only do downshifts.

Joined the Arizona region of PCA on their Hot Air Tour.  Drove 3,082 miles round-trip through desert and snowy mountain passes with no issues other than having 2 center caps stolen, or fall out, somewhere in NM.  I ordered a replacement pair from both ECS Tuning and Jim Ellis Porsche in Atlanta. It seemed like it would take awhile to get them so I ordered 2 from each place.  I also ordered four extra O-rings from Jim Ellis.  I noticed that the new caps had rubber O-rings made from a different material than the old caps.  The new ones had a much tougher feeling gray colored O-ring, and they made the caps fit much, much tighter.  Unlike a non-centerlock car where you can drive around without caps, the caps on centerlock wheels have a rubber O-ring to keep dirt and water out of the centerlock mechanism. A new rubber O-ring from Porsche runs ~$9, #99970104540, and a new cap w/O-ring, #99736120703, runs ~$50.  It may be prudent to change out the O-rings every 5 years or so to keep the caps fitting nice and tight, which makes them harder to remove. 

I bought several of these London Fog umbrellas to give away to clients on rainy days, and I found that it coincidentally fits perfectly into the passenger side door sill storage slot.  Porsche does make an umbrella that fits into this slot, but this is much, much cheaper.  ASIN# 800409Q081.
August 44Kmi.
Bought a 5yr/60K mi Fidelity powertrain warranty from Michael Jourdain at Mossy Motors in New Orleans, since my factory 2yr CPO warranty expires in Jan. I found him via Rennlist.

Went on the June Zone 7 / Shasta PCA 4 day tour through N. CA out of Redding. The car ran great.

I also picked up a spare ignition coil to add to have as a spare for long trips.

Oil change. I wanted to get the Mobil1 out before going on the next road trip since it was going to be a long one (Report).  I'm glad I did as the oil was more than done.  Drove 4,007 miles, and amazingly got 23.1mpg, on a road  trip through Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming.  Other than picking up a screw in a rear tire that resulted in a very slow leak on the way home, the car ran great. I got the tire patched at TrackSpec

Interesting aero pattern 3,000mi into the trip.

April 40K mi.

New windshield.  A few months ago a rock hit the very bottom of the windshield, which I did not notice until a crack spread about 6" over the course of the next week.  If I had seen it I would have used a chip repair kit on it.  The crack did stop spreading, and since the crack was so far down on the windshield it didn't bother me.  A month later it doubled in size overnight suddenly, and so it seemed prudent to replace the windshield for safety reasons.  Safelite works with my insurer USAA so I used them.  Thankfully there is now a aftermarket windshield available, unlike when I replaced the windshield a couple times on my old 4S when there was no option other than the more expensive OEM part.

I had Carlsen Porsche do the PDK clutch service and check over the car as the warranty expires in Jan 2019, and I'm at the 6yr recommended interval for PDK service.  The clutch fluid side of the PDK transmission needs to be done with it hooked up to a Porsche PIWIS diagnostic tool, as that will operate the internal valves necessary to properly refill it.  As far as I can tell no one else makes a diagnostic/service tool that will do what the PIWIS does in terms of PDK clutch service. Besides new fluid, the pan was changed, as it incorporates a filter.  Why Porsche didn't incorporate a changeable filter into the pan so that the pan could be reused is beyond me.  Hopefully the aftermarket will eventually make a reusable pan with a changeable filter.  In December I will change the transaxle fluid side myself, as that is a simple drain and refill just like a normal manual gearbox.  At that time I will also change the front two differential fluids, AWD controller fluid & differential fluid, to make sure nothing odd is going on with them before the warranty expires.  If it wasn't for the factory warranty expiring, I would wait until I hit 60K mi to do all those.  The dealer changed the oil while it was there.

Oil Change. Report.  Blackstone's note about the Al being at 9ppm isn't that far off the 3-8ppm range I saw with my 4S.  Granted the motor is of a different design so it probably is not a very relevant comparison. It could be just how I took the sample. I did cut apart the oil filer and didn't see anything.

I pulled off the front bumper to clean out the radiators.  If it wasn't for getting stuck behind several hay trucks on the way to and from Vancouver, and nailing some birds on a recent drive, I wouldn't have bothered.  The screens I installed several months ago do a good job of keeping the vast majority of stuff out. I did add some more screws and zip ties to better attach the screens to seal the sides of the screens better.  I'm glad I did pull the bumper off as there was way more stuff in there than I had thought, especially gravel.  The design of the ducting is better than my old 996.2 in that there is a space engineered in the design that allows the majority of the junk to collect or pool up in an area off of the radiator.  In hindsight after I got it all back together I wish I had put some rubber weather stripping around the edges of the screen so that it is a tighter fit to prevent junk from getting stuck between the edge of the screen and the bumper.

February 38K mi.
Installed a Cartek Gear Indicator when the useless timer is located.  After doing a mountain drive a few days after watching the Bathurst 12hr race it occurred to me that it would be nice to not have to look down and find the tiny number to see what gear I was in. In previous cars if I ever lost track of what gear I was in, I'd just put my hand on the gearshift lever and I'd know by the position what gear I was in.  With the PDK's 7 gears it's not as easy to keep track when going up and down and up and down the gears.  I figured I could adapt a large gear indicator designed for a racecar, and after a short online search found this made by a company out of the UK.  I got the OBD converter also to make wiring easy. In fact if I'd known about the OBD converter I would have used that when I installed my shift light instead of running a wire from the PCM behind the rear seats to the dash. Programming was a bit of a hassle as you need to be driving, but once you get the hang of it it's not so bad, and you only need to do that once.  Basically you drive the car slowly through all the gears, changing gears when it tells you.  So you need a good long stretch with no traffic to do that. I wired in a switch to ground out the programming wire (that will make sense after you read the installation instructions). Since i already have a shift light I set the thresholds on this very high. Until I figure out a better way to mount it, I wrapping the unit in black packing foam I had lying around, and wedging it in where the timer was, securing it from behind with a piece of duct tape.  I retained the timer's clear lens, and you can still angle it side to side.  It's rather self explanatory to remove the timer from the housing as it is just held in place by 4 set screws.  Pegasus Racing had the light and OBD adapter in stock. I think it was worthwhile especially since I don't have to look at the useless timer anymore.

I revised the iPhone connection wiring so that there is now enough power to actually charge my iPhone, and not just provide a maintenance charge. I edited my November entry below to show the addition of a Hitcar 12V to 5V converter.  The stock USB port does not provide enough changing power unfortunately.
December 2017
I took off the undertrays to look over everything, and to add some sheet aluminum to reinforce some areas to prevent cracking like I did on my 4S. Photo's and patterns for the aluminum pieces I fabricated can be found here.

Reorganized my DSCsport files in DropBox, and I've been working on a new files: KPL3, where I changed the values in the Gforce tab for Sport mode, and KPL4 where I changed the Normal settings to get a more comfortable ride.  Feel free to download and try any of the files yourself.  The excel spreadsheet documents the changes from file to file. Note that there are two sheets in the spreadsheet.

Removed these 2 air deflectors that are in front of the rear tires as they were on the verge of falling off.  I figured if I didn't, I'd loose them at some point.

Got a set of Michellin 4S tires from TireRack to run on my 2nd set of wheels.  I'll burn off the 2 sets of Bridgestone RE-71R's on the other set of wheels, and then decide what to get when they are done.  While they are a great sticky tire, they just wear too fast, and below 3/4 tread depth they are really poor in the wet.  Having TireRack heat cycle them did help with wear quite a bit I think, and I would recommend paying the $60 to have that done.  Too bad Falken doesn't make their 615K in sizes to fit this car as they were great on my old S. Mounted and Balanced at TrackSpec.

Rewired the iPhone charger/sync cable.  The lightning plug on the extension cord that I previously installed that plugs into the phone got loose and the connection would disconnect randomly, so I got a new one from Cellularize on Amazon, in black.  Hopefully this one is more durable.  I also added a CableJive "dockStubz+ 30-pin charge converter" to hopefully actually charge the phone when I leave it's screen on when running the Navigon app for navigation. This is powered by a Hitcar 12V to 5V micro USB power supply that I tapped into the cig lighter port power supply. The battery level of the phone barely maintains itself otherwise as the car USB port doesn't put out enough power to really charge a phone.  Here are all the cables and adapters you need to duplicate what I did.

(1). CableJive "dockStubz+ 30-pin charge converter".
(2). HitCar 12V to 5V micro USB converter.  Provides charging power to the above.
(3). Cellularize 2M long 8-pin iPhone extension cable, black.
(4). Porsche USB-iPod adapter (the one that should have come with your car).
(5). Apple 30-pin to 8-pin lightning adapter.

I ended up removing the 2nd floor layer pictured above as I couldn't cram all the wires in there.  I used some duct tape to keep the wires from interfering with the parking brake cables under this plate that was removed.

Went to a day organized on Rennlist for Porsche owners at DentPro in Campbell, and so I got 3 small dings pulled out that I didn't see when I bought the car.

Drove 3,100mi with the Las Vegas Porsche Club to Vancouver.  The car again ran great.

September 31K mi.

Oil & Filter change. Report

The rear RE71R's are close to cording I think so I put on the new set and had the alignment checked at TrackSpec.  I'll keep the old tires as they are still grippy for a nearby event just to see how long they'll go before cording.  I had the new set of tires heat cycled so we'll see if that helps wear.  If not I'll try something else that will hopefully last longer, but still be fun to drive.  I dialed out some rear camber as the insides were wearing.
        F: Camber -1.0, total toe 0.07deg.
        R: Camber -2.0, total toe 0.36deg.
        F: Camber -1.1, total toe 0.05deg.
        R: Camber -1.7, total toe 0.31deg.


Had another TPMS sensor fail of the other front wheel.  Must just be timing out as they are all ~8 years old. Huf #RDE011V21.

Bought a set of WeatherTech floormats for the front.  I've had them in other cars, and since they fit exceptionally well and are so easy to clean, I got a set for this car. Bought on Ebay from WeatherTech, part# 44Z461 (floorliner black),

I changed the DSCsport controller settings to firm the ride up a bit in Normal mode, and to firm the shocks up quite substantially in Sport mode.  In the "Substantially Firmer" file (found on DSC's website), I modified the "Shock Calibration" tab by doing the following: Hit the Clear all button, change the first four blocks on each shock to 1,400ma, set the last block at 400ma, and use the Fill function to fill in the remaining empty spaces for Normal mode. For Sport mode I scaled from 1,000 to 200.  The stock shocks only goto 400, so this ramps the shocks to 100% sooner. Here is a thread on Rennlist discussing tuning the DSCsport module.

I got another set or RE71R's to have mounted on the 2nd set of wheels. I had TireRack heat cycle them, so it will be interesting to see if they last longer.  The set I bought a few months ago are about 1/2 worn so I wanted to make sure I have a set around with deep treads for when it starts raining again, and for when we go on another long trip.  I did not want to wait until I needed a set only to find out they are not in stock.

Drove 4,200mi. on a drive to Montana and back, with no problems other than a TPMS sensor that went out on a front wheel after running over some seriously rough center divide gator and botts dots combo. The battery was fine when checked a couple months ago when the tires were mounted. Huf #RDE011V21 (original Porsche #997.606.021.20 => superseded by 9A7.907.275.06).

My wheels are turned so I could pop out a rock that got stuck between the brake disk and heat shield on the FR.

May 25K mi.
You can tell I love this car as I've already put 5,000 miles on it, which is more than my average normal monthly mileage.  I figured I would do an oil change to get a baseline as I have no idea how much harder this motor is on oil vs. my old 4S.  I also prefer to run 5W-40 vs. 0W-40 since I'm in CA and never have to worry about low temperatures. Besides 5W-40, the manual even states that you can run 5W-50.  I had such great wear running Redline in the 4S that I put that in, so it will be interesting to get a Blackstone report at the next oil change to compare it to the Mobil1 that the dealer put in just before I bought it.  Changing oil on this car was even easier than my 4S, and that was easy. I backed the car onto ramps to do the change, and it appears that resulted in more oil needing to be added, about 9.5qts, vs. what others have noted online. The report looked good, but I had to add 1qt of oil over the last 5K miles, so it will also be interesting to see if that changes going forward.

Installed a DSCsport shock controller.  After reading reviews, and speaking to a friend who installed it on his 997.2 GTS, it seemed worthwhile.  I thought the stock normal mode was too soft, plus I could tune the stock shocks using my laptop if I ever wanted to, or at least load different configurations. Out of the box I thought the DSC module still allowed more body roll and brake dive than I prefer, so I downloaded and installed the "Substantially firmer than stock" file from the DSC website and really, really, like how it rides now in both normal and sport modes.

Found that dash rattle that had been driving me mad by using the Tone Generator (by TMSoft) iphone app. Basically you plug your phone into the stereo, play the app, and adjust the frequency until you cause the rattle to happen.  You can then listen as you move around the inside of the car to find the source.  It works best if you roll the windows up.  I found that my radar detector mount was buzzing a little, but the main culprit was the sport chrono timer wart.  I popped that off and placed felt over the clips that lock it in place, jammed some weatherstripping between the body of the timer and the mount, and popped it back in. While using the app I also found a slight rattle in the passenger door, but it's not noticeable when the car is driving, and taking the door apart is a PITA.

Ordered a set of the new Hancook R-S4's for the car from TireRack a month ago in anticipation of getting a second set of wheels to mount them on.  It worked out really well on my 4S having two sets of the same wheels with the same tires on them, so that I can run one set down until they give up, and still have a set with good tread to run on cross country drives and in the winter. After the shipping time came and went, I called TireRack and was now told that they now had no idea when to expect them. So I had them send me a set of RE-71R's instead.  After trying for several months I finally got a set of wheels via Rennlist.

In changing the wheels I found that I couldn't break the front lug nuts loose, so got a 6' piece of 1.5" pipe from the hardware store to slip over my breaker bar.  Otherwise it went well as once you get the hang of the centerlocks it actually takes about the same amount of time to swap wheels vs. 5-lugs.  I found that time made up with 1 nut vs. 5 was lost in swapping between the breaker bar and torque wrench multiple times.  I also got a 3' piece of pipe to keep with the torque wrench in the car on long drives as it'll offer more leverage than the breaker bar attachment that the torque wrench came with.  3' is also the maximum length that'll fit the rear package shelf under the window.  I'll now need to figure out a way to strap it and the torque wrench box down.  A 22" piece of 2"x4", which doubles as a wheel chock in my garage so I know where to stop, worked perfectly to wedge between the seat and brake pedal for breaking the centerlock nuts. I assume that is it not ok to break the nuts loose while the car is on the ground as one would with traditional 5-lug hubs since the manual said to do so while pressing the brake pedal.

Wow, the center radiator really collects leaves and other debris, much more than the side ones do.  I noticed that 997.2 GT3's came from the factory with really nice screens for the radiators, and so after searching online I found that Rennline makes a nice set that looks very similar. With the way the side radiator gills are mounted to the bumper, and the position of the turn signals, it seemed a lot easier to buy a kit that reinvent the wheel and fab up something myself.  Part #E100126212

Installed a new set of wipers as the old ones were hard as a rock and looked like they could be original.  Considering that I doubt the car had ever been driven in the rain before I bought it, that seems very likely. Valeo #V3900221B.

I removed the door lock button in the center of the vents, and interlude a magnetic mount for my phone. I couldn't figure out a elegant way to mount my phone and it occurred to me that I never, ever, used the door lock button.  The doors could always be programmed to lock automatically.  I like to be able to see my phone without having to pick it up while driving, and while the navigation system is adequate, for long trips that require custom routing I've found the the Navigon phone app is far more useful.  Removing the vent was not easy on my car, and I broke the clips that you use the screwdriver on.  Once you release those clips, use something to help pivot or tilt the top of the vent down.  After tilting it down I was able to pull it out.  I was able to wedge something under the top center clip so that it holds firmer, to make up for the broken clips. I mounted a magnetic vent mount I got off of Amazon to a piece of aluminum which runs through the hole where the door lock button was, and screwed it down on the other end. This is totally reversible.  I did however have a rattle after reassembly, so I tried using some weather stripping to make it fit tighter. That didn't get rid of the rattle entirely, so I am now trying some felt tape in combination with the weather stripping. All this is probably this is why it was so hard to remove in the first place, as an extremely tight fit is probably what it needs to keep it from rattling.  Maybe I just need a new vent with with the clips, or fab up something to take the place of the broken clips. Upon more investigation it appears the rattle is not in the vent but somewhere else in the center of the dash. I'll keep applying felt tape to things, and jamming foam back there until it goes away.

Received a very cool package from Porsche.  They must send this to anyone who buys a CPO'd car.  I've always found their marketing programs rather interesting.

There is some fun stuff you can do with a Durametric or PIWIS (Planet9 tutorial).  I changed the side markers to flash with the turn signals as the general population drive like idiots and as I seem to be the lead car on a lot of fun runs so I'd be more noticeable when I plan a turn.  I also disabled the driver seat bell chime so when I'm sitting in the car with the motor running and not going anywhere I don't have to hear it.  I then checked the box to keep the fog lights on when the high beams are on, and clicked the box to activate the spoiler under heavy acceleration because I'm a child and more spoiler is always better.
Installed the Ecliptech shift light from my old 4S.  Unfortunately, it was not as easy to install in this car as there is no wire to tap into under the dash to get an ignition signal to trigger the light.  You need to tap into a wire coming out of the ECU behind the rear seats.  I tapped into the wire for cylinder 5's coil (any circled in green below would work) which happened to be the same color wire (white/red) that I was using to run to the shift light, and matched this up to the Black/Blue wire on the shift light. Black/Red went to the OBD2 connector wiring where I found a ignition power source (blue/orange?) by trial and error (see below).  A lot of power sources on this car continue to be hot for awhile when the ignition is off, so get out a multimeter and test a wire under different circumstances if you are unsure which one to use.  I attached the Black wire to the brown ground wire for the passenger footwell 12V port. I could have used a wire on the OBD2 harness also, but that's a long story.  Here is Sharkwerks guide to how to get to the ECU behind the back seats. I used fishtape to run the wire from the ECU under the rear carpet to the center console, and then just tucked it under the console along where it meets the carpet on the drivers side.  Set the shiftlight calibration to .5 for the shiftlight to work properly.

I also ran an extension cord for for my iPhone at the same time.  I punched a small hole in the rubber liner, and drilled a small hole in the 2nd floor of the storage compartment, within the center armrest.  I then fished the cord through to the small storage tray in front of the shifter. The center console has enough clearance between it and the carpet to do this.  I did not remove the center console, though I did remove the leather wrapped "wing" on the passenger side of the NAV unit to fish the cord to the back of the storage tray. A mini iPhone plug will just fit through an existing hole at the back of the storage tray, so all you need to do is punch a hole in the rubber liner to run the cord through. See the Rennlist DIY guides for how to take apart the center console.

From dicking around with the electrical system (leaving the ignition on, etc.) to install the radar detector and shift light, I managed to drain the battery a couple times.  Before charging the battery the first time I checked the electrolyte levels and found that the cells weren't even covered.  So much for the dealer doing a compete inspection, or for the prior owner ever checking.  Result - new Napa battery.

I picked up a few things from ECS Tuning: tube of Optomoly paste for the centerlock wheels, magnetic oil pan plug, 5 drain plug washers, a spare accessory belt to keep in the trunk for road trips, and 3 oil filters.

Removed the rear seats as they never get used, and I'd rather toss stuff back there and not worry about damaging the seats.  I keep the belts installed, as someone could still sit back there if need be, they just won't have any cushion, but have more head and leg room. I used the seat mounting bolts to mount hooks for a net to keep small things from flying around.

If you followed my 4S blog you would know that I added some protection to protect the lower radiator hose attachment to the radiator.  If you look under your 996 or 997 Turbo or 4S you can see how precariously the lower radiator hose hangs down.  If you hit any road debris, or accidentally roll the car too far over a curb that happens to be at just the right height while parking, you can break the radiator.  For all of Porsche's great engineering, they really screwed this up. i took a different approach this time vs the screens I made for the 4S. Also, the forward part of the fender liner that also acts as a air channel to the brakes is made of brittle plastic, which will easily crack and break if you run over any road debris. I skinned it in a thin piece of aluminum.

I'm going to add a small cross bar to further protect the radiator hose. I found the aluminum at my local hardware store.  It is easy to work with, and forgiving.  The rubber air diverters were removed, as I also did on my 4S, since they will ultimately be ripped off at some point, and their removal never mattered on my 4S.

January 2017 19K mi.

Installed my Valentine One radar detector using a Blendmount mount attached to the rearview mirror. Unfortunately the mount I used on my old 4S would not work with this car so I had to get a new one.  I tapped into the wiring for the map lights above the rearview mirror. I wired it up as follows:
        V1 phone cord => Car wiring
        Power: Red => Orange/Black.
        Ground: Green => Attached to a screw on the sunroof motor.

I had TrackSpec have their clear bra vendor, Motoskin, wrap the entire front end of the car.  They used the newest Suntek product that has a 10yr warranty.  From past experience with my 4S, the front of these cars just get pummeled no matter how careful you are with keeping a reasonable distance from other cars. In fact the prior owner of my car already had the front end paint touched up.

While the car was at TrackSpec I had them check the alignment. It is now:
        F: Camber -1.0, total toe 0.07deg.
        R: Camber -2.0, total toe 0.36deg.

The centerlock wheels need to be torqued to 433ft-lbs so I had to buy a new torque wrench as my good old Snap-On torque wrench only goes to 250ft-lbs.  From searching online Precision Tools had a good package deal.  600ft-lb 3/4" torque wrench and breaker bar combo, C4D600F36H. It came in a nice case, but unfortunately the extra breaker bar handle doesn't fit in it.  Regardless it'll fit in the car to bring on road trips.  Here are a couple of other items that help when changing the wheels:

Since we go on long road trips, and on each one of our really long trips at least one person has had a blowout, I ordered a spare tire from Carlsen Porsche since the car doesn't come with one.  The last thing I want to do on vacation is sit around in the middle of nowhere for countless hours waiting for a flatbed to take me to the nearest town.  It would be much better to just put on a spare to get somewhere, and then figure out how to get a replacement tire. It unfortunately will not fit in the trunk even with some of the plastic interior removed. It's just a bit too tall by ~1/2".  Maybe I can find a trunk lid to mod for clearance.  I also thought about mounting it old school rally car style in the far back of the cabin on the package shelf, but meanwhile I will put it behind the passenger seat, and secure it with the seatbelt running through the center of the wheel.  I found the scissor jack on Ebay for a little money. A jack from a late model 911 (996+) or Cayman/Boxster will work.  Spare tire part #997-362-021-00.

I used an old T-shirt to cover it up and prevent scuffing of the interior.

Judging by the 970 part number on the spare, this is probably from a Panamera. So maybe one can save some money
by sourcing one from a wreck, and then you can maybe order the centerlock spacer/adapter piece through a dealer,
as it has a 997 part number on it.

DME info, pulled with a Durametic so I have a baseline:

I purchased the car from Carlsen Porsche in Redwood City, CA with a 2 year CPO warranty. All maintenance was performed by the dealer, so I'm good for awhile. A new front spoiler was installed, fresh oil & filter, cabin & engine filters, spark plugs, and brake fluid flush. Brake pads reported to be at 95%.  The tires, Michelin Super Sports, seem to be pretty new, and when I decoded the date on the sidewall found they are from 2011.  No wonder they seemed rather hard.  Considering how clean the underside and engine compartment are I'd be surprised if the car ever saw the rain.  Here how the car was equipped: