2011 Porsche 911 Turbo S

I replaced my 2003 Porsche Carrera 4S that I bought in mid 2008 with this car, a 2011 911 Turbo S in January 2017.  It is 1 of 1,267 997.2 Turbo S coupes produced from 2011-13 for the N. America market.  As my ownership blog for the 4S proved to be popular, judging by the random emails I regularly received from people all over the world thanking me for posting it, I'll keep a log for this car also.  I hope you find the information useful.

Porsche Option DecoderPorsche 2011 Turbo brochureRennlist DIY guidesVIN Decoder - Window Sticker,   Production Figures.

Porsche Maintenance Schedules.    Here is my compressed and simplified maintenance schedule:
    10K/1yr Oil & Filter.     2 years Brake Fluid, Cabin Filter.      30K/4yrs Spark Plugs.     40K/4yrs Engine Air filter.
    60K/6yrs Accessory Belt, Power steering fluid, Coolant?, AWD Controller Fluid, Clutch Oil, PDK Trans (gear) Fluid, Front Differential (gear) Fluid.

Part numbers for regular maintenance items: Oil- Mahle OX 254 D4.      Cabin- MANN CUK3360.    Engine- ____.
      Spark Plugs- NGK Iridium IX _____.     Accessory Belt- Continental 99919237950 CTT.

Centerlock Wheel changing guide (simplified from the porsche guide 997.821.11):

(1). Put car in park or 1st, parking brake on. Jack the car up.
(2). Depress the brake pedal. Either have someone manually do this, or place a 22 long 2x4 or similar between the seat and brake pedal.
(4). Remove dust cap, remove wheel nut.
(5). Screw wheel alignment tool onto hub, R&R wheel.
(6). Lube the conical surface of the wheel nut, and the threads of the hub with Optomoly paste.
(7). Remove wheel alignment tool, screw on the wheel nut hand tight.
(8). Torque the wheel nut to 444ft-lbs. Loosen ¼ turn.  Torque it again to 444ft-lbs.
(9). Ensure that the central locking pin has popped out into the locked position. If not, use square tool to wiggle it until it pops out.
(10). Lube the rubber seal of the dust cap with Vaseline and install.
(11). Remove 2x4 holding down the brake pedal. Lower car.
For servicing your car, visit TrackSpec Autosports in Fremont, CA, diagnostic and automotive electronics check out OBDinnovations, and if you like driving visit GTGdrives.

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I pulled off the front bumper to clean out the radiators.  If it wasn't for getting stuck behind several hay trucks on the way to and from Vancouver, and nailing some birds on a recent drive, I wouldn't have bothered.  The screens I installed several months ago do a good job of keeping the vast majority of stuff out. I did add some more screws and zip ties to better attach the screens to seal the sides of the screens better.  I'm glad I did pull the bumper off as there was way more stuff in there than I had thought, especially gravel.  The design of the ducting is better than my old 996.2 in that there is a space engineered in the design that allows the majority of the junk to collect or pool up in an area off of the radiator.  In hindsight afer I got it all back together I wish I had put some rubber weather stripping around the edges of the screen so that it is a tighter fit to prevent junk from getting stuck between the edge of the screen and the bumper.

February 38K mi.
Installed a Cartek Gear Indicator when the useless timer is located.  After doing a mountain drive a few days after watching the Bathurst 12hr race it occurred to me that it would be nice to not have to look down and find the tiny number to see what gear I was in. In previous cars if I ever lost track of what gear I was in, I'd just put my hand on the gearshift lever and I'd know by the position what gear I was in.  With the PDK's 7 gears it's not as easy to keep track when going up and down and up and down the gears.  I figured I could adapt a large gear indicator designed for a racecar, and after a short online search found this made by a company out of the UK.  I got the OBD converter also to make wiring easy. In fact if I'd known about the OBD converter I would have used that when I installed my shift light instead of running a wire from the PCM behind the rear seats to the dash. Programming was a bit of a hassle as you need to be driving, but once you get the hang of it it's not so bad, and you only need to do that once.  Basically you drive the car slowly through all the gears, changing gears when it tells you.  So you need a good long stretch with no traffic to do that. I wired in a switch to ground out the programming wire (that will make sense after you read the installation instructions). Since i already have a shift light I set the thresholds on this very high. Until I figure out a better way to mount it, I wrapping the unit in black packing foam I had lying around, and wedging it in where the timer was, securing it from behind with a piece of duct tape.  I retained the timer's clear lens, and you can still angle it side to side.  It's rather self explanatory to remove the timer from the housing as it is just held in place by 4 set screws.  Pegasus Racing had the light and OBD adapter in stock. I think it was worthwhile especially since I don't have to look at the useless timer anymore.
I revised the iPhone connection wiring so that there is now enough power to actually charge my iPhone, and not just provide a maintenance charge. I edited my November entry below to show the addition of a Hitcar 12V to 5V converter.  The stock USB port does not provide enough changing power unfortunately.
December 2017
I took off the undertrays to look over everything, and to add some sheet aluminum to reinforce some areas to prevent cracking like I did on my 4S. Photo's and patterns for the aluminum pieces I fabricated can be found here.

Reorganized my DSCsport files in DropBox, and I've been working on a new files: KPL3, where I changed the values in the Gforce tab for Sport mode, and KPL4 where I changed the Normal settings to get a more comfortable ride.  Feel free to download and try any of the files yourself.  The excel spreadsheet documents the changes from file to file. Note that there are two sheets in the spreadsheet.

Removed these 2 air deflectors that are in front of the rear tires as they kept getting hammered by cones when autocrossing, and would occasionally be left hanging on for dear life.  I figured if I didn't, I'd loose them at some point.

Got a set of Michellin 4S tires from TireRack to run on my 2nd set of wheels.  I'll burn off the 2 sets of Bridgestone RE-71R's on the other set of wheels, and then decide what to get when they are done.  While they are a great autocrossing tire, they just wear too fast, and below 3/4 tread depth they are really poor in the wet.  Having TireRack heat cycle them did help with wear quite a bit I think, and I would recommend paying the $60 to have that done.  Too bad Falken doesn't make their 615K in sizes to fit this car as they were great on my old S. Mounted and Balanced at TrackSpec.

Rewired the iPhone charger/sync cable.  The lightning plug on the extension cord that I previously installed that plugs into the phone got loose and the connection would disconnect randomly, so I got a new one from Cellularize on Amazon, in black.  Hopefully this one is more durable.  I also added a CableJive "dockStubz+ 30-pin charge converter" to hopefully actually charge the phone when I leave it's screen on when running the Navigon app for navigation. This is powered by a Hitcar 12V to 5V micro USB power supply that I tapped into the cig lighter port power supply. The battery level of the phone barely maintains itself otherwise as the car USB port doesn't put out enough power to really charge a phone.  Here are all the cables and adapters you need to duplicate what I did.

    (1). CableJive "dockStubz+ 30-pin charge converter".
    (2). HitCar 12V to 5V micro USB converter.  Provides charging power to the above.
    (3). Cellularize 2M long 8-pin iPhone extension cable, black.
    (4). Porsche USB-iPod adapter (the one that should have come with your car).
    (5). Apple 30-pin to 8-pin lightning adapter.

I ended up removing the 2nd floor layer pictured above as I couldn't cram all the wires in there.  I used some duct tape to keep the wires from interfering with the parking brake cables under this plate that was removed.

Went to a day organized on Rennlist for Porsche owners at DentPro in Campbell, and so I got 3 small dings pulled out that I didn't see when I bought the car.

Drove 3,100mi with the Las Vegas Porsche Club to Vancouver.  The car again ran great.

September 31K mi.

Oil & Filter change. Report

The rear RE71R's are close to cording I think so I put on the new set and had the alignment checked at TrackSpec.  I'll keep the old tires as they are still grippy for a nearby event just to see how long they'll go before cording.  I had the new set of tires heat cycled so we'll see if that helps wear.  If not I'll try something else that will hopefully last longer, but still be fun to drive.  I dialed out some rear camber as the insides were wearing.
        F: Camber -1.0, total toe 0.07deg.
        R: Camber -2.0, total toe 0.36deg.
        F: Camber -1.1, total toe 0.05deg.
        R: Camber -1.7, total toe 0.31deg.


Had another TPMS sensor fail of the other front wheel.  Must just be timing out as they are all ~8 years old. Huf #RDE011V21.

Bought a set of WeatherTech floormats for the front.  I've had them in other cars, and since they fit exceptionally well and are so easy to clean, I got a set for this car. Bought on Ebay from WeatherTech, part# 44Z461 (floorliner black),

I changed the DSCsport controller settings to firm the ride up a bit in Normal mode, and to firm the shocks up quite substantially in Sport mode.  In the "Substantially Firmer" file (found on DSC's website), I modified the "Shock Calibration" tab by doing the following: Hit the Clear all button, change the first four blocks on each shock to 1,400ma, set the last block at 400ma, and use the Fill function to fill in the remaining empty spaces for Normal mode. For Sport mode I scaled from 1,000 to 200.  The stock shocks only goto 400, so this ramps the shocks to 100% sooner. Here is a thread on Rennlist discussing tuning the DSCsport module.

I got another set or RE71R's to have mounted on the 2nd set of wheels. I had TireRack heat cycle them, so it will be interesting to see if they last longer.  The set I bought a few months ago are about 1/2 worn so I wanted to make sure I have a set around with deep treads for when it starts raining again, and for when we go on another long trip.  I did not want to wait until I needed a set only to find out they are not in stock.

Drove 4,200mi. on a pre run of GTGdrives 2018 Grand Tour, with no problems other than a TPMS sensor that went out on a front wheel after running over some seriously rough center divide gator and botts dots combo. The battery was fine when checked a couple months ago when the tires were mounted. Huf #RDE011V21 (original Porsche #997.606.021.20 => superseded by 9A7.907.275.06).

My wheels are turned so I could pop out a rock that got stuck between the brake disk and heat shield on the FR.

May 25K mi.
You can tell I love this car as I've already put 5,000 miles on it, which is more than my average normal monthly mileage.  I figured I would do an oil change to get a baseline as I have no idea how much harder this motor is on oil vs. my old 4S.  I also prefer to run 5W-40 vs. 0W-40 since I'm in CA and never have to worry about low temperatures. Besides 5W-40, the manual even states that you can run 5W-50.  I had such great wear running Redline in the 4S that I put that in, so it will be interesting to get a Blackstone report at the next oil change to compare it to the Mobil1 that the dealer put in just before I bought it.  Changing oil on this car was even easier than my 4S, and that was easy. I backed the car onto ramps to do the change, and it appears that resulted in more oil needing to be added, about 9.5qts, vs. what others have noted online. The report looked good, but I had to add 1qt of oil over the last 5K miles, so it will also be interesting to see if that changes going forward.

Installed a DSCsport shock controller.  After reading reviews, and speaking to a friend who installed it on his 997.2 GTS, it seemed worthwhile.  I thought the stock normal mode was too soft, plus I could tune the stock shocks using my laptop if I ever wanted to, or at least load different configurations. Out of the box I thought the DSC module still allowed more body roll and brake dive than I prefer, so I downloaded and installed the "Substantially firmer than stock" file from the DSC website and really, really, like how it rides now in both normal and sport modes.  As a test I ran the car for a half day at a autocross with the OEM PASM box to get base times, then swapped it for the DSCsport module for the afternoon runs.  Generally my times in the afternoon sessions at these events, where we get a lot of runs, do not improve much if any at all. In the rare case that they do, it's because of my driving (found a better line) and rarely due to a change in the surface conditions. Unfortunately, the results from the day were invalid as I was sorting out tire pressures on the RE71R's as I had not run them before.  There is less body roll and brake dive with the DSCsport box, making the car easier to control and feel what it's going to do.

Found that dash rattle that had been driving me mad by using the Tone Generator (by TMSoft) iphone app. Basically you plug your phone into the stereo, play the app, and adjust the frequency until you cause the rattle to happen.  You can then listen as you move around the inside of the car to find the source.  It works best if you roll the windows up.  I found that my radar detector mount was buzzing a little, but the main culprit was the sport chrono timer wart.  I popped that off and placed felt over the clips that lock it in place, jammed some weatherstripping between the body of the timer and the mount, and popped it back in. While using the app I also found a slight rattle in the passenger door, but it's not noticeable when the car is driving, and taking the door apart is a PITA.

Ordered a set of the new Hancook R-S4's for the car from TireRack a month ago in anticipation of getting a second set of wheels to mount them on.  It worked out really well on my 4S having two sets of the same wheels with the same tires on them, so that I can run one set down until they give up, and still have a set with good tread to run on cross country drives and in the winter. After the shipping time came and went, I called TireRack and was now told that they now had no idea when to expect them. So I had them send me a set of RE-71R's instead.  After trying for several months I finally got a set of wheels via Rennlist.

In changing the wheels I found that I couldn't break the front lug nuts loose, so got a 6' piece of 1.5" pipe from the hardware store to slip over my breaker bar.  Otherwise it went well as once you get the hang of the centerlocks it actually takes about the same amount of time to swap wheels vs. 5-lugs.  I found that time made up with 1 nut vs. 5 was lost in swapping between the breaker bar and torque wrench multiple times.  I also got a 3' piece of pipe to keep with the torque wrench in the car on long drives as it'll offer more leverage than the breaker bar attachment that the torque wrench came with.  3' is also the maximum length that'll fit the rear package shelf under the window.  I'll now need to figure out a way to strap it and the torque wrench box down.  A 22" piece of 2"x4", which doubles as a wheel chock in my garage so I know where to stop, worked perfectly to wedge between the seat and brake pedal for breaking the centerlock nuts. I assume that is it not ok to break the nuts loose while the car is on the ground as one would with traditional 5-lug hubs since the manual said to do so while pressing the brake pedal.

Wow, the center radiator really collects leaves and other debris, much more than the side ones do.  At recent autocrosses I noticed that 997.2 GT3's came from the factory with really nice screens for the radiators, and so after searching online I found that Rennline makes a nice set that looks very similar. With the way the side radiator gills are mounted to the bumper, and the position of the turn signals, it seemed a lot easier to buy a kit that reinvent the wheel and fab up something myself.  Part #E100126212

Installed a new set of wipers as the old ones were hard as a rock and looked like they could be original.  Considering that I doubt the car had ever been driven in the rain before I bought it, that seems very likely. Valeo #V3900221B.

I removed the door lock button in the center of the vents, and interlude a magnetic mount for my phone. I couldn't figure out a elegant way to mount my phone and it occurred to me that I never, ever, used the door lock button.  The doors could always be programmed to lock automatically.  I like to be able to see my phone without having to pick it up while driving, and while the navigation system is adequate, for long trips that require custom routing I've found the the Navigon phone app is far more useful.  Removing the vent was not easy on my car, and I broke the clips that you use the screwdriver on.  Once you release those clips, use something to help pivot or tilt the top of the vent down.  After tilting it down I was able to pull it out.  I was able to wedge something under the top center clip so that it holds firmer, to make up for the broken clips. I mounted a magnetic vent mount I got off of Amazon to a piece of aluminum which runs through the hole where the door lock button was, and screwed it down on the other end. This is totally reversible.  I did however have a rattle after reassembly, so I tried using some weather stripping to make it fit tighter. That didn't get rid of the rattle entirely, so I am now trying some felt tape in combination with the weather stripping. All this is probably this is why it was so hard to remove in the first place, as an extremely tight fit is probably what it needs to keep it from rattling.  Maybe I just need a new vent with with the clips, or fab up something to take the place of the broken clips. Upon more investigation it appears the rattle is not in the vent but somewhere else in the center of the dash. I'll keep applying felt tape to things, and jamming foam back there until it goes away.

Received a very cool package from Porsche.  They must send this to anyone who buys a CPO'd car.  I've always found their marketing programs rather interesting.

There is some fun stuff you can do with a Durametric or PIWIS (Planet9 tutorial).  I changed the side markers to flash with the turn signals as the general population drive like idiots and as I seem to be the lead car on a lot of fun runs so I'd be more noticeable when I plan a turn.  I also disabled the driver seat bell chime so when I'm sitting in the car with the motor running and not going anywhere I don't have to hear it.  I then checked the box to keep the fog lights on when the high beams are on, and clicked the box to activate the spoiler under heavy acceleration because I'm a child and more spoiler is always better.
Installed the Ecliptech shift light from my old 4S.  Unfortunately, it was not as easy to install in this car as there is no wire to tap into under the dash to get an ignition signal to trigger the light.  You need to tap into a wire coming out of the ECU behind the rear seats.  I tapped into the wire for cylinder 5's coil (any circled in green below would work) which happened to be the same color wire (white/red) that I was using to run to the shift light, and matched this up to the Black/Blue wire on the shift light. Black/Red went to the OBD2 connector wiring where I found a ignition power source (blue/orange?) by trial and error (see below).  A lot of power sources on this car continue to be hot for awhile when the ignition is off, so get out a multimeter and test a wire under different circumstances if you are unsure which one to use.  I attached the Black wire to the brown ground wire for the passenger footwell 12V port. I could have used a wire on the OBD2 harness also, but that's a long story.  Here is Sharkwerks guide to how to get to the ECU behind the back seats. I used fishtape to run the wire from the ECU under the rear carpet to the center console, and then just tucked it under the console along where it meets the carpet on the drivers side.  Set the shiftlight calibration to .5 (1 slight flashing) for the shiftlight to work properly.

I also ran an extension cord for for my iPhone at the same time.  I punched a small hole in the rubber liner, and drilled a small hole in the 2nd floor of the storage compartment, within the center armrest.  I then fished the cord through to the small storage tray in front of the shifter. The center console has enough clearance between it and the carpet to do this.  I did not remove the center console, though I did remove the leather wrapped "wing" on the passenger side of the NAV unit to fish the cord to the back of the storage tray. A mini iPhone plug will just fit through an existing hole at the back of the storage tray, so all you need to do is punch a hole in the rubber liner to run the cord through. See the Rennlist DIY guides for how to take apart the center console.

From dicking around with the electrical system (leaving the ignition on, etc.) to install the radar detector and shift light, I managed to drain the battery a couple times.  Before charging the battery the first time I checked the electrolyte levels and found that the cells weren't even covered.  So much for the dealer doing a compete inspection, or for the prior owner ever checking.  Resilt - new Napa battery.

I picked up a few things from ECS Tuning: tube of Optomoly paste for the centerlock wheels, magnetic oil pan plug, 5 drain plug washers, a spare accessory belt to keep in the trunk for road trips, and 3 oil filters.

Removed the rear seats as they never get used, and I'd rather toss stuff back there and not worry about damaging the seats.  I keep the belts installed, as someone could still sit back there if need be, they just won't have any cushion, but have more head and leg room. I used the seat mounting bolts to mount hooks for a net to keep small things from flying around.

If you followed my 4S blog you would know that I added some protection to protect the lower radiator hose attachment to the radiator.  If you look under your 996 or 997 Turbo or 4S you can see how precariously the lower radiator hose hangs down.  If you hit any road debris, or accidentally roll the car too far over a curb that happens to be at just the right height while parking, you can break the radiator.  For all of Porsche's great engineering, they really screwed this up. i took a different approach this time vs the screens I made for the 4S. Also, the forward part of the fender liner that also acts as a air channel to the brakes is made of brittle plastic, which will easily crack and break if you run over any road debris, or say a cone while autocrossing. I skinned it in a thin piece of aluminum.

I'm going to add a small cross bar to further protect the radiator hose. I found the aluminum at my local hardware store.  It is easy to work with, and forgiving.  The rubber air diverters were removed, as I also did on my 4S, since they will ultimately be ripped off at some point, and their removal never mattered on my 4S.

January 2017 19K mi.

Installed my Valentine One radar detector using a Blendmount mount attached to the rearview mirror. Unfortunately the mount I used on my old 4S would not work with this car so I had to get a new one.  I tapped into the wiring for the map lights above the rearview mirror. I wired it up as follows:
                V1 phone cord => Car wiring
                Power: Red => Orange/Black.
                Ground: Green => Attached to a screw on the sunroof motor.

I had TrackSpec have their clear bra vendor, Motoskin, wrap the entire front end of the car.  They used the newest Suntek product that has a 10yr warranty.  From past experience with my 4S, the front of these cars just get pummeled no matter how careful you are with keeping a reasonable distance from other cars. In fact the prior owner of my car already had the front end paint touched up.

While the car was at TrackSpec I had them check the alignment. It is now:
        F: Camber -1.0, total toe 0.07deg.
        R: Camber -2.0, total toe 0.36deg.

The centerlock wheels need to be torqued to 433ft-lbs so I had to buy a new torque wrench as my good old Snap-On torque wrench only goes to 250ft-lbs.  From searching online Precision Tools had a good package deal.  600ft-lb 3/4" torque wrench and breaker bar combo, C4D600F36H. It came in a nice case, but unfortunately the extra breaker bar handle doesn't fit in it.  Regardless it'll fit in the car to bring on road trips.

Since we go on long road trips, and on each one of our really long trips at least one person has had a blowout, I ordered a spare tire from Carlsen Porsche since the car doesn't come with one.  The last thing I want to do on vacation is sit around in the middle of nowhere for countless hours waiting for a flatbed to take me to the nearest town.  It would be much better to just put on a spare to get somewhere, and then figure out how to get a replacement tire. It unfortunately will not fit in the trunk even with some of the plastic interior removed. It's just a bit too tall by ~1/2".  Maybe I can find a trunk lid to mod for clearance.  I also thought about mounting it old school rally car style in the far back of the cabin on the package shelf, but meanwhile I will put it behind the passenger seat, and secure it with the seatbelt running through the center of the wheel.  I found the scissor jack on Ebay for a little money. A jack from a late model 911 (996+) or Cayman/Boxster will work.  Spare tire part #997-362-021-00.

Judging by the 970 part number on the spare, this is probably from a Panamera. So maybe one can save some money
by sourcing one from a wreck, and then you can maybe order the centerlock spacer/adapter piece through a dealer,
as it has a 997 part number on it.

DME info, pulled with a Durametic so I have a baseline:

I purchased the car from Carlsen Porsche in Redwood City, CA with a 2 year CPO warranty. All maintenance was performed by the dealer, so I'm good for awhile. A new front spoiler was installed, fresh oil & filter, cabin & engine filters, spark plugs, and brake fluid flush. Brake pads reported to be at 95%.  The tires, Michelin Super Sports, seem to be pretty new, and when I decoded the date on the sidewall found they are from 2011.  No wonder they seemed rather hard.  Considering how clean the underside and engine compartment are I'd be surprised if the car ever saw the rain.  Here how the car was equipped: